Flying Dutchman Pat

New Caledonia is a French territory in the South Pacific which can easily be reached in 2,5 hours by plane from Brisbane, Australia. New Caledonia consists of the main island Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands (Ouvéa, Lifou, Maré) and the 2 small islands Île des Pins and Îles Belep. It’s known for its charming mix of French and Melanesian influences, idyllic beaches and world class (wreck)-diving.

Facts

• Territory of France
• Capital: Nouméa
• Language: French
• Currency: CFP Franc (1 €  ≅ 120 XPF)
• Population: 268.000
• Size: 18.576 km² (1/2 of Holland)
• Daylight saving time: No
• Visas: Not required for most nationalities, French territory visa is not part of a Schengen visa
• Best time to visit: Sep – Nov (dry season)
• Visited: 2011 (part of Pacific trip)

Nouméa

I flew into the capital of New Caledonia from Vanuatu which takes roughly 1,5 hours. When I showed my passport to the immigration officer he looked at it briefly and gave it back to me. He didn’t give me a stamp, because I’m back in Europe. Well Europe on the other side of the world in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. New Caledonia is a territory of France which means that I, as an European citizen, don’t require a stamp to enter this territory. I gave my passport back to the officer and asked him politely if he can stamp it for me, because I really want one! Luckily he was in a good mood today so he stamped my passport in the end. Happy days! I just love to get my passport filled with each and every corner of the world. It would be a huge benefit if you can speak French, because English is barely spoken in New Caledonia. The last time I spoke French was on high school, so you could say that my French was quite rusty. But it was enough to get around. The population of New Caledonia is a mix of immigrants from France of which the majority live on the main island Grande Terre, and the indigenous Melanesians of which the majority call the surrounding islands home.

The amazing view from my hostel in Nouméa, New Caledonia.

So many expensive yachts in the harbor of Nouméa!

I took a local bus from the airport to the city centre of Nouméa and hiked up a hill to my hostel. Auberges de Jeunesse is an excellent hostel and from the top of the hill you have an amazing view of the city centre. From up here you’ve a bird’s-eye view of the harbor of Nouméa which is filled with heaps of expensive yachts. Nouméa feels a bit like small-Paris, but more relaxed. You will see many examples of Gothic architecture when you walk around the city centre.

The waterfront is a good place for a stroll.

Another example of Gothic architecture.

Going out for dinner is expensive as almost everything is imported from Australia or New Zealand. If you fancy a cheap takeaway meal then head to the large car park near the waterfront opposite the market were food vans sell delicious Asian meals for a few bucks. Very cheap for Pacific standards, but for Asian standards not so much. I was in the mood for a movie so I went to the cinema to check which movies were on. I learned that all the American movies get dubbed. My French is not so good in order to understand a whole movie so I skipped movie-night.

Left: Saint Joseph’s Cathedral – Right: The waterfront

The waterfront of Nouméa.

The weather was pretty horrible for the last few days; a lot of rain and strong winds. Due to this heavy weather the ferries to the Loyalty islands were not able to operate. On top of this the local airline was on strike. So basically, I’m stuck in Nouméa. No worries; Nouméa is a very pleasant city for a few extra days. I went to the waterfront for an evening stroll. The harbor is filled with expensive yachts and one of the owners invited me for a drink and a tour around his yacht. Awesome! After a few days the storm has abated and the airline is back in business. Off to Lifou!

Lifou

The luxurious ferry ‘Betico’ brings you in 6 hours to the island of Lifou which is part of the group of Loyalty islands. Note: the ‘Betico‘ ferry only runs twice a week. Nouméa is laid-back, but once you set foot on Lifou you really know what laid-back means. The people here are super relaxed, friendly and they’re not interested in any form of luxury goods. Everybody says hello and helps each other. Perfect place for me!

Arriving at the ferry terminal of Lifou!

Beautiful beach just in front of my home-stay.

The indigenous people still live here in traditional thatched huts. After a long walk from the ferry terminal I found a very friendly family who has thatched huts for rent. Jeannette’s home-stay is right on a beautiful long stretch of beach. Such a lovely place for a few nights!

My crib for the coming nights!

Beautiful rugged shoreline of Lifou.

Jeanette, who just gave birth, showed me around the island. We saw magnificent cliff-top views, sheltered bays, secluded beaches, fascinating caves and above all a rich traditional culture. You will find many vanilla plantations on Lifou, they call it the black gold of Lifou. The beaches are idyllic and most of the time you have them all for yourself. I spotted quite some turtles just off the beach. Always great to see these awesome fellows minding their own business!

Palm trees are always good.

Can you find your flag?

Weddings are quite traditional and they all take place on a certain day during the week. On Lifou wedding party’s take place on Mondays. And for such party’s the whole village is invited. The locals like to drink, they like to drink a lot. You will see many locals sleeping the alcohol off underneath a palm tree or just in the middle of a roundabout. Love it!

A small church on top of a hill.

The view from the small church.

Just before I left Nouméa I booked a flight from Lifou back to Nouméa. These flights go every day and the ‘Betico’ ferry only operates twice a week. With the ‘Betico’ I wouldn’t be able to catch my flight out of New Caledonia to French Polynesia on time. The day before my scheduled flight to Nouméa I was notified by the airline that they were on strike again. How do I get off this island? There are no planes and the ferry only comes in a few days. Will I miss my flight to French Polynesia? I felt a mild form of panic!

So many shades of blue!

Lifou is the true Pacific for me.

I met a local guide in his mid fifties when I was swimming in one the many caves which can be found around the island. When he finished with his group he asked me if I wanted to join him for lunch with his family. Absolutely!

Lifou has some amazing views.

I love these thatched huts.

His wife made countless traditional dishes and fresh tropical fruit mixes. Their hospitality is enormous. We enjoyed our meal and the fresh ocean breeze. His brother was very enthusiastic when I told him about my around the world trip and the destinations which were on my list. He wanted to give me a souvenir so I will remember his family and Lifou. He gets up from his chair, takes off his Hawaiian style button shirt and gives it to me. For you my new friend! Fantastic! Such an awesome family!

Just another day in paradise!

Such a peaceful spot.

I love the color of the water.

I took a walk along a long stretch of idyllic shoreline and I was amazed with the color of the sea. So many different shades of blue! Just paradise! I wish I already had my PADI diving license when I visited New Caledonia, because this part of the South Pacific is pretty famous for their well preserved ship wrecks. Definitely a reason to come back for!

Perfect spot to forget your every day stress.

I was pleasantly surprised with Lifou.

I could stay here for a few more days.

His brother told me that a cargo ferry normally brings supplies to Lifou once a month. He also told me that the cargo ferry will arrive tonight. Wow, it must be my lucky day! Yeah! I found my way off this island! The cargo ferry sometimes allows passengers to join. I didn’t doubt for a second and rushed myself to the ferry terminal. The cargo ferry was already docked to the pier. I ran to my thatched hut, grabbed my backpack, said goodbye to Jeanette and her awesome family and ran back to the cargo ferry. As soon as I found myself a seat on the deck the cargo ferry departed. Close call! It will take 12 hours before we arrive in Nouméa, so I should better get some sleep.

Mama is cooking!

Tropical fruits.

After a brief stop in Maré we continued our journey to Nouméa where we arrived early in the morning. I killed another 8 hours in Nouméa before I flew off to French Polynesia!

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